Monday, September 22, 2008

Horseradish Sauce for Fr. Z

Whilst working on text of first report on Liturgy during the recent papal visit, I came across Fr Z's enquiry about horseradish sauce recipes. SPECIALLY FOR YOU FATHER, here is a paragraph from one of my own published books, containing two recipes, one by chef Alexis Soyer and one by me:

"The root's savage assault on the tearducts when it is being grated can be counteracted by freezing beforehand or holding a thick piece of dry bread between the teeth. (Strong onion fumes may be similarly absorbed.) Alternatively, if your sinuses need clearing forget the bread. The nineteenth-century chef Alexis Soyer invented an awsome horseradish sauce recipe: " Universal Devil's Mixture". Apart from the grated fresh horseradish, the ingredients include, chilli vinegar, cayenne and black pepper, and chopped chillies. He suggests it be pressed into incisions made in the meat, which is then slowly broiled, and for the last few minutes as near as possible to the "pandemonium fire"! Perhaps a little much for all but the most intrepid. My own recipe is simpler and consists merely of fresh grated horseradish, mustard powder and single cream. It is nevertheless very hot, and those unused to it have to be warned."

To this I would add, never use vinegar which to my palate always leaves a lingering unpleasant aftertaste whatever one consumes in later courses; always use Colman's English mustard powder available in tins; mix to the consistency of a fairly stiff porridge, with amounts to personal taste. Don't insert into incisions in the meat but serve as a side sauce .

Father, if you don't grow horseradish on the Sabine Farm, put it on your wish list and I'll send you some roots, or thongs as they're called, together with a few tins of Colman's mustard powder.
I'll send growing instructions if necessary. The mustard may have to wait until I've been to UK in November.

Jane

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